| # | Component | Spec / what to buy | Why it is in the system |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Roof catchment | Standing-seam or painted metal, concrete or clay tile. 300–1,000 ft² usable, 3–12° slope, no trees overhanging. | The bigger the roof, the more water per storm. The material decides what dissolves into it — lead flashing and bare copper are out. |
| 2 | Gutter + leaf screen | 5″ seamless aluminium, 1 mm stainless mesh over the full run, hangers every 24″, fall 1″ per 10 ft. | Keeps leaves and droppings out before they rot in the tank. A screened gutter is half your pre-filtration. |
| 3 | Downspout | 3″ minimum, clean-out cap at the bottom, first section removable. | The vertical run into the diverter — and the place you clean when it blocks. |
| 4 | First-flush diverter | 10–20 gal (1 gal per 100 ft², never under 10). Float-ball auto-dump, or a manual ball valve you open after each rain. | Dumps the dirtiest water first — feces, dust, pollen. The biggest single cut in filter load you can buy for $40. |
| 5 | Inlet screen + calmed fill | 400–1,000 µm stainless basket at the IBC inlet; elbow or diffuser pointing down into the water, not at the floor. | Catches the last debris and stops incoming water from stirring the sludge layer back into suspension. |
| 6 | IBC · 330 gal | Food-grade HDPE, shaded or sleeved — translucent is fine, you read the level through the wall. Flat pad, strapped. 2″ bulkhead at mid-height to B1; 1 mm screened vent; screened overflow to daylight. | The big settle and the main buffer. Draw from 6″ above the sludge, never off the bottom. |
| 7 | Barrel 1 · raw settle 2 | 55-gal food-grade drum with a screw lid. 2″ bulkheads at mid-height to the IBC and to B2; 1 mm screened vent; 1″ drain at the low point. | Second settling stage. What the IBC stirs up on refill drops out here instead of in your cartridges. |
| 8 | Barrel 2 · raw draw | Same drum, plus a 1″ outlet 4–6″ above the bottom feeding the pump strainer. This is the pump's only source. | The cleanest raw water you have. Drawing straight from the IBC drags sediment through every filter downstream. |
| 9 | Transfer pump | 1/2–1 HP shallow-well jet or transfer pump, 3–5 GPM at 40–60 psi, self-priming; 100-mesh pre-strainer; float low-water cut-off. | Pushes water through the filters. RO is pressure-driven — no pressure, no permeate. The cut-off saves the pump when B2 runs dry. |
| 10 | Pressure tank + switch | 2–4 gal bladder tank, 30/50 psi switch, check valve. | Stops the pump short-cycling every time a tap or the ice-maker opens. |
| 11 | Sediment filters | Two 20″ big-blue housings in series: 20 µm pleated, then 5 µm spun. Change at a 10 psi drop. | Mud, grit and rust. Cheap cartridges protecting the expensive carbon and the membrane behind them. |
| 12 | Carbon block | 20″ 5 µm carbon block, NSF/ANSI 42, every 3–6 months, always before the RO. | Taste, odour and VOCs — but the real job is stripping chlorine, which destroys a TFC membrane. |
| 13 | Softener (conditional) | Cation-exchange or salt-free cartridge if hardness >150 mg/L as CaCO₃, or iron >0.3 ppm. | Hard water scales the membrane and halves its life. Skip it only if your water is soft. |
| 14 | RO membrane | TFC 75–100 GPD, 2:1 high-efficiency membrane, auto shut-off valve, check valve. Feed must be <0.1 ppm free chlorine. | Removes dissolved salts, heavy metals, nitrate and PFAS. 2:1 runs a 33% recovery, so the concentrate is stronger — keep the softener in. At 100 GPD it makes ~4 gal/hour: batch it overnight. |
| 15 | Permeate tank | 3–4 gal bladder tank, usually supplied with the RO kit. | Holds finished water at pressure so the tap actually flows. |
| 16 | Remineralizer | Calcite/corosex cartridge, after the permeate tank and before the UV. | RO water is acidic and flat. Minerals and pH come back here; it also stops the water attacking metal. |
| 17 | UV sterilizer | NSF/ANSI 55 Class A, 254 nm, ≥40 mJ/cm², 5–12 GPM, quartz sleeve, lamp-life meter. Lamp is a 12-month consumable. | Kills whatever got through. Needs power, clear water and a clean sleeve — cloudy water makes it decorative. |
| 18 | 0.2 µm absolute filter | PES or hollow-fibre capsule, absolute rated, after the UV. | The last physical barrier — and the filter you drink through when the power is out. |
| 19 | Fill station | Wall tap over a drip tray or bench, 3/8″ line from the 0.2 µm, plus a hose bib for the bulk barrels. | One place to fill a jug or a drum — so nothing ever gets filled from a garden hose. |
| 20 | 4 × 5-gal dispensers | Food-grade HDPE with a screw spigot cap, opaque or sleeved, one per 2 people. | The point of use — the vessel that actually touches your glass. Keep it the cleanest thing in the system. |
| 21 | Potable bulk · B5 + B6 | Two 55-gal food-grade drums, sealed lids with a 0.2 µm vent, dosed to 0.5 ppm, drawn through the station. | 110 gal of reserve = 27 days of drinking for 4 people. Rotate one against the other so one can be cleaned. |
| 22 | Reject barrel · B3 | 55-gal drum, open top, labeled REJECT, on the RO reject line. | RO dumps 2 gal for every gallon made — still ~290 gal on a full bank. Garden, toilet, washdown; never the drain, never a glass. |
| 23 | Wash barrel · B4 | 55-gal drum with a spigot, fed from a tee after the carbon block. | Filtered but not disinfected: dishes, hands, tools, pets. Keeps you from burning potable water on chores. |
| 24 | Test kit + dosing | TDS meter, pH pen, turbidity, free-chlorine strips, bacteria plates, and a 1 mL dosing syringe. | You cannot taste Cryptosporidium. 2 mL of 5–6% bleach per 55 gal = 0.5 ppm; 0.2 mL per 5-gal jug. |
| # | Also required | Spec / what to buy | Why it is in the system |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Pad + anchoring | 4″ compacted gravel or concrete under the IBC and barrels; straps or anchor bolts; block every drum so it cannot roll. | 2,700 lb of water moves. A tipped IBC is a flood plus 330 gal of lost supply. |
| B | Insulation + shade | Rigid foam and shade cloth; heat tape and pipe insulation in a freeze climate. | A frozen housing cracks and floods the room; a hot tank grows algae. |
| C | Backflow preventer | RPZ or dual-check on any municipal tie-in; air gap where possible. | Never let stored rainwater siphon back into a city main. |
| D | Chemicals | Unscented 5–6% bleach, food-grade citric acid, a 1 mL syringe, and pH/chlorine test strips. | Tank shock, barrel dosing and filter descaling — the maintenance you will actually do. |
| E | Spares | 2 full filter sets, 1 UV lamp + sleeve + O-rings, 1 RO membrane, 1 float switch, spare drum lid + gasket, silicone grease. | Nothing fails conveniently. Spares on the shelf are the difference between a week and a day. |
| F | Tools | Strap wrench, 2″ hole saw for bulkheads, tubing cutter, 20 ft of 3/8″ tubing, hose clamps, TDS pen, logbook. | You will service this at 2 a.m. in the rain. Make it easy. |
2″ bulkheads at mid-height — one to the IBC, one to each drum, linked with 2″ hose or PVC, a removable 1 mm strainer inside each and a 2″ ball valve at each end. The three then act as one 440-gal settling body that levels itself, and you can shut one off to scrub it.
Keep the tops level to within an inch, or put a float valve in B1 so a full IBC cannot overflow it. Check with a hose before the first rain.
Draw from B2 only, 4–6″ above its bottom. Fit each drum with a 1″ low-point drain, and shim them so they tilt toward it. Clean one vessel at a time — the other two carry the system.
B5 / B6 (55 gal): 2 mL of 5–6% unscented bleach = 0.5 ppm. Mix in a jug of water first, pour in, lid on, wait 30 min.
5-gal jugs: 0.2 mL (about 4 drops) = 0.5 ppm, or leave undosed and drink within 7 days.
Rotation: one potable barrel in service, one sealed and resting. Swap every 30 days; empty, scrub, refill. Date the lid in marker.
Never dose a barrel you have not cleaned, and never top off a part-full vessel — empty it first.
1 · Catch & bank — pads, IBC, B1, B2, bulkheads, gutter mesh, first flush, inlet basket. Fill with a hose, check the three vessels level and leak-free.
2 · Move water — strainer, pump, pressure tank, switch, low-water cut-off, valve to B3/B4. Confirm 3–5 GPM at the far end.
3 · Filter — sediment 20/5 µm, carbon, softener, RO, permeate, remineralizer. Flush every cartridge 10 minutes before anything is drunk.
4 · Disinfect & prove — UV, 0.2 µm, fill station, jugs, B5/B6. Shock the bank, then a bacteria test and a lab panel before you call it drinking water.
| First-flush water | after every rain event |
| Sediment 20 / 5 µm | 3–6 months, or at 10 psi drop |
| Carbon block | 3–6 months — never past 6 |
| RO membrane | 2–5 years (TDS tells you) |
| Remineralizer | 6–12 months |
| UV lamp | 12 months / 9,000 h — it dims before it dies |
| UV quartz sleeve | clean quarterly, replace 2 years |
| Barrels + jugs | scrub + shock every 30 days (potable), 6 months (raw) |
IBC + B1 + B2 level, linked, screened, labeled.
First flush diverts ≥10 gal and dumps freely.
Pump draws from B2 only, 4–6″ off the bottom.
Filter order is 20 → 5 µm → carbon → RO.
Free chlorine at the RO feed is 0.0 ppm.
UV lit, sleeve clean, lamp date written.
Reject runs to B3, not the drain.
Bacteria test negative (two samples, 24 h apart).
Every vessel labeled; logbook started.
| Weekly | TDS at the RO outlet (should be ≤10% of feed), pH 6.5–8.5, turbidity <1 NTU, smell every vessel. |
| Monthly | Bacteria (HPC or Petrifilm), filter pressure drop, UV lamp hours, torch inside the IBC and B1. |
| Quarterly | Clean the UV sleeve, flush the first-flush chamber, scrub and re-dose the potable barrels. |
| 6 months | Shock the raw bank (50 ppm), replace sediment and carbon, replace first-flush water. |
| Annually | UV lamp + sleeve, RO membrane test, lab panel (metals, nitrate, PFAS if near industry). |
| Flow drops at the tap | Sediment cartridge loaded — replace it, and check the first flush is dumping. |
| Earthy or plastic taste | Carbon spent, or biofilm in a barrel — shock it, new carbon block. |
| TDS climbing after RO | Membrane breached or bypass open — replace the membrane, check the ASO valve. |
| UV alarm / no glow | Lamp end of life or failed ballast — replace the lamp, write the date on it. |
| Rotten-egg smell | H₂S / sulphur bacteria — shock with chlorine, add KDF/GAC, keep the vessel dark and cool. |
| Slimy jug spigot | Hand contamination — wash the spigot, re-shock the jug, stop dipping cups. |
The pump and the UV need electricity. If the grid is the thing that failed, the train stops with it — but your 130 gal of stored potable water does not.
▸ Four 5-gal jugs + B5/B6 are your supply: 32 days of drinking for 4 people, no power needed.
▸ 0.2 µm gravity filter or ceramic + carbon gravity filter — the same barrier as stage 18.
▸ Chlorine dioxide tablets (Aquamira / Potable Aqua) — the only field chemical that reliably handles Cryptosporidium.
▸ Rolling boil, 1 minute (3 minutes above 6,500 ft) — the universal fallback.
▸ 12 V pump + 100 W panel + battery runs the whole train; 12 V RO units exist at 50–100 GPD.
✕ Drink from any raw vessel because the water "looks clear".
✕ Chlorinate before the carbon and call it treated.
✕ Run the UV on cloudy water — it does nothing.
✕ Put RO reject on the garden and then drink from that garden's hose.
✕ Store potable water in a drum that held anything else.
✕ Fill a jug from a garden hose (lead, phthalates).
✕ Cross-connect to a municipal main without a backflow preventer.
6.5–8.5 pH |
< 500 TDS ppm · RO < 50 |
< 1 TURBIDITY NTU |
0.0 FREE Cl AT THE RO |
< 150 HARDNESS mg/L |
< 10 NITRATE mg/L |
0 COLIFORM / 100 mL |
| Date | Sample point | TDS ppm | pH | Turbidity NTU | Free Cl ppm | Bacteria | Action taken |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|